আমার প্রথম ট্রেকের কারন ছিল বন্ধ্‌! My First Trek was caused by Strike in the year 1998!

বাস থেকে নেমে মায়ের হাত ধরে মাকে জিজ্ঞাসা করেছিলাম “কতটা হাঁটতে হবে মা?” মা বলেছিল “এই যে কালো রাস্তাটা গাছের সারির ভেতর থেকে গিয়ে আকাশে মিশেছে, ওইখান পর্যন্ত!” এইভাবেই শুরু হয়েছিল আমার প্রথম ট্রেক।

বাস থেকে নেমে মায়ের হাত ধরে মাকে জিজ্ঞাসা করেছিলাম “কতটা হাঁটতে হবে মা?” মা বলেছিল “এই যে কালো রাস্তাটা গাছের সারির ভেতর থেকে গিয়ে আকাশে মিশেছে, ওইখান পর্যন্ত!” এইভাবেই শুরু হয়েছিল আমার প্রথম ট্রেক (first trek)। 

যতটা মনে পড়ে, তখন আমি তৃতীয় শ্রেণীতে(3rd stander) পড়ি। আট কি নয় বছর বয়স হবে। আমার বাবা তখন ম্যালেরিয়া জ্বরে ভবানিপুর পুলিশ হাসপাতালে ভর্তি। বাবাকে দেখে মা আর আমি বাড়ি ফেরার জন্য বাসে উঠেছিলাম। কাকদ্বীপ যাওয়ার সরকারি ভুতল বাস।

govt bus bhutol
এটাকে আমরা ভুতল বাস বলে থাকি

ছোটবেলায় বাসে চড়াটা একটু আলাদা রকমেরই ভালোলাগা দিত। কালো লজেন্স, বাদাম, সবুজ মটর ভাজা আর লম্বা লম্বা পেপসি বরফ, এই ছিল আমার খাওয়ার বায়না।

বাসের জানালার ধারে বসে পেপসি খেতে খেতে বাইরের ঘরবাড়ি দেখা খুবই লোভনীয় একটা ব্যাপার ছিল। অনেকবার বকুনিও খেয়েছি চলন্ত বাসের জানালা থেকে হাত বাড়ানোর জন্য। বাসের গায়ের স্ক্রু -গুলকে বোতাম ভেবে টিপতাম আর ভাবতাম এইতো আমি বাস চালাতে পারি।

তো সেইবারে বাবার সাথে দেখা করার পর বাসে উঠে কাকদ্বীপ ফিরছি। যথারিতি আমার বাস ছোটানোর সুইচ টেপাটেপি চলছে। এই সুইচ চাপলাম বাস ছুটছে, লোক উঠবে সুইচ চাপলাম গাড়ি থামাতে হবে, পিঁ পিঁ পিঁ! আবার গাড়ি চলছে, স্পীড বাড়ানোর সুইচ! হু হু করে গাড়ি ছুটছে! বাইরের ঘরবাড়ি, গাছপালা অনেক স্পীডে পেছনে চলে যাচ্ছে। ওই দূরে মাঠ পেরিয়েই কাদের গ্রাম দেখা যাচ্ছে। মাঠের ওপারেই ঘন সবুজ গাছের লাইন। পিঁ পিঁ পিঁ! গাড়ি থামছে সুইচ চাপতে হবে! এই ব্রেক!

যা আর গাড়ি চলছেনা! শুনতে পেলাম বাসের কন্ডাক্টার চেঁচিয়ে চেঁচিয়ে বলছে “ওদিকে আর গাড়ি যাবে না”।

– নিশ্চিন্তপুর –

দেখালাম লাইন দিয়ে সবাই বাস থেকে নেমে যাচ্ছে। তাহলে বাস কি খারাপ হয়ে গেল।  

মাও আমাকে নিয়ে নেমে গেল। পিচের রাস্তার ধারে মাটিতে দাঁড়িয়ে আমি অবাক হয়ে দেখছি, বাসের সব লোক নেমে হাঁটতে শুরু করে দিয়েছে।

লোকজনকে জিজ্ঞাসা করে মা জানতে পারল, বন্ধ্‌ চলছে আর বাস চলবে না। কোনও গাড়ি-ঘোড়া কিচ্ছু না।

আমি মা কে বারবার জিজ্ঞাসা করতে শুরু করলাম, কেন বাস যাবে না মা? তাহলে কি আমরা অন্য গাড়িতে যাব? ভ্যানে যাব? কোথায় এখন আমরা?

আরও অনেককিছুই হয়তো জিজ্ঞাসা করেছিলাম সেইসময় সব মনে নেই। কিন্তু, এটা মনে আছে পাশেরই কেউ একজন বলতে বলতে যাচ্ছিল-

নিশ্চিন্তপুর থেকে কাকদ্বীপ! কম রাস্তা? একি জালা বল দেকি।” 

মা অনেক খোঁজাখুঁজি করেও কোনকিছু না পেয়ে ব্যাগ কাঁধে চাপিয়ে আমার হাত ধরল। হেঁটে হেঁটেই যেতে হবে কোনও উপায় নেই।

১৯৯৮ সাল। যখন-তখন বন্ধ্‌ চলত। বাংলা, ভারত, পরিবহন আরও কতরকমের বন্ধের চল ছিল তখন। ওটা কোন বন্ধ্‌ ছিল মনে নেই,

আমি ও আমার মা হাঁটতে শুরু করলাম। একটুখানি রাস্তা তো, মা বলেছে ওই যে দূরে যেখানে কালো পিচের রাস্তাটা, সরু হতে হতে আকাশে মিশে গেছে, ওখানে গেলেই শেষ।

যখন হাঁটা শুরু করেছিলাম খুব মজা হচ্ছিল। বড় ফাঁকা রাস্তা কোনও গাড়ি চলছে না। আমি রাস্তার মাঝখান থেকেও হাঁটতে পারছি। রাস্তার এপার ওপার ছুটছিলাম। রাস্তায় তো কোনও গাড়ি আসবেই না। কি সমান কালো রাস্তা।

আমার মনে পড়ে তখন আমি ছোট হাফ ইংলিশ প্যান্ট পরতাম। কাপড়ের বেল্ট দেওয়া প্যান্ট আর চটি।

তবে বেশিক্ষন আর মজাটা থাকল না। রোদ্দুরের জন্য পিচের রাস্তা গরম হয়ে হলকা উঠতে শুরু করেছিল।

আরও যারা বাস থেকে নেমেছিল বেশীরভাগ মানুষই আশেপাশের গ্রামে যে যার বাড়ির দিকে চলে গেল। আর যারা ছিল তারা অনেক তাড়াতাড়ি এগিয়ে যাচ্ছিল। পনেরো কুড়ি মিনিট পর দেখলাম আমি আর মা একমাত্র দুজনই যা রাস্তায় হাঁটছি আর কেউ নেই।

রাস্তার দুপাশে যতদূর চোখ যায় ধু ধু ফাঁকা মাঠ। অনেকক্ষন তো হাঁটছি। দুরের সরু রাস্তাটা যেন শেষ হচ্ছেই না। মনে হল আরও যেন দূরে সরে যাচ্ছে।

-“মা আর কত হাঁটতে হবে?” 

-“আর একটু খানি! ৫ নম্বরের হাটে গেলে কাকদ্বীপে যাওয়ার নিশ্চই  কিছু পাওয়া যাবে।”

closed shops
দোকান বন্ধ

৫ নম্বরের হাঁট! নাম শুনেছিলাম। ওখানে গেলে গাড়ি করে যেতে পারব তাহলে! হেঁটে চললাম মায়ের সাথে সাথে।

তখন ওই রাস্তায় এখনকার মত এত লোকজন, দোকান পাট ছিল না। একটা স্টপেজ পরে অন্য স্টপেজের মাঝে কোনও ঘর বাড়িও দেখতে পাওয়া যেতো না। শুধুই বড় রাস্তা আর মাঝে মাঝে রাস্তার দুইপাশে বড় গাছ। আর গাছের গায়ে চারিদিকে সাদা সাদা রঙ করা।

গাছের গায়ে পেরেক পোঁতা থাকলে নাকি সেটাতে ভুত থাকে। সান্তনু বলেছিল। সান্তনু ছিল আমার ক্লাশ-টু এর বন্ধু। আর দেখা হয়না, আমরা যে দেশের বাড়ি চলে এসেছি। ও তো ব্যারাকপুরে থাকে।

এই গাছগুলোর গায়ে কই পেরেক পোঁতা নেই। যাক এই রাস্তায় তাহলে ভুত নেই। বড্ড গরম। পা খুব ব্যাথা করছে। ৫ নম্বর কখন আসবে কে জানে।

আর খানিক হাঁটার পর দূরে রাস্তার ধারে কি সাদা ঘর মতো দেখতে পেলাম।

-“ও মা! ওইটা ৫ নম্বর হাট?”

-“না ওটা খিরিশতলা!”

– খিরিশতলা! তাহলে কি ওখানে বড় বড় খিরিশ গাছ ভর্তি!

খিরিশতলা এসে দেখলাম রাস্তার দুই ধারে তিন চারটে দোকান। দোকানের দরজা বন্ধ। কেউ নেই। বড় বড় খিরিশ গাছ দুটো দাঁড়িয়ে আছে রাস্তার বাম দিকে। হাঁটতে আর ভালো লাগছে না! আমি গাছের গোড়ায় শেকড়ের ওপর বসে পরলাম।

প্রচন্ড জল পিপাসা পেয়েছে। মা দোকানের কাছে চাপা কল থেকে জল এনে খাওয়াল। চোখে মুখে জল দেওয়ার পর একটু বসে থাকলাম।

কিন্তু বাড়ি যেতে হবে, আবার হাঁটতে শুরু করলাম আমরা। আমি আর বেশিক্ষন হাঁটতে পারলাম না। মা-এর কোলে উঠে পরলাম।

আমার মা হাইটে খুব একটা বড় নয়। আর আট নয় বছরের ছেলে মানে অনেকটাই বড় হয়ে গেছি। পনের, কুড়ি মিনিট আমাকে নিয়ে হাঁটার পর মা ও ক্লান্ত হয়ে পড়ল। অগত্যা আবার আমার হাঁটা শুরু।

গাছের ছায়া দেখে দেখে হাঁটছিলাম। যেখানে রোদ্দুর, পিচের রাস্তার সেইখানে যেন আগুন জলছে। পা রাখাই যাচ্ছে না।

– পাঁচ নম্বরের হাট –

রাস্তা যেন শেষই হচ্ছিলনা। ঘণ্টা খানেক হাঁটার পর পাঁচ নম্বরের হাটে পৌঁছলাম।

বেশ অনেক দোকান পাট, কিন্তু সবই বন্ধ ছিল। মনে হয়েছিল যেন সবাই এলাকা ছেড়েই চলে গেছে। তখন অতকিছু জানতাম না বন্ধ্‌ কি জিনিস। কেন ডাকে বন্ধ্‌।

no one in shop for strike
photo from internet

মা বসে পড়েছে। ভাবছে কি করবে।

এখনকার মত ট্রেন চলাচলও ছিল না। ট্রেন শুধুমাত্র লক্ষিকান্তপুর পর্যন্তই চলত। কলকাতা থেকে কাকদ্বীপ যাওয়ার জন্য এই একটাই উপায়। আর একটা উপায় ছিল, ডায়মন্ড হারবার পর্যন্ত ট্রেনে করে গিয়ে কাকদ্বীপ যাওয়ার জন্য আবার সেই ভুতল অথবা ৭৬ নম্বর বাস ধরতে হতো, যেটা সময় নিত আড়াই থেকে তিন ঘণ্টা।

বেশ খানিকক্ষণ বসে থাকার পর মা আবার উঠে পড়ল। খিদেও খুব পেয়েছে। কিন্তু হাটের দোকানপাট সবই তো বন্ধ।

মা বলল কাকদ্বীপে গিয়ে খাওয়ার পাওয়া যাবে। উপায় নেই কিছু ঘরে যেতে হলে হাঁটতেই হবে। নাহলে রাস্তায় কোথায় থাকব। ছেলেধরা যদি ধরে নিয়ে যায়। কিন্তু আমার আর হাঁটতে একদম ইচ্ছে করছিলনা। পা যেন চলছে না আর।

– “চল আর একটুখানি!”

– “আর কটা স্টপেজ পার হতে হবে?”

– “বেশি না আর দুটোর পরেই কাকদ্বীপ!”

আমি পারছিনা দেখে মা আমায় আবার কোলে নিয়ে নিল।

আধাঘণ্টা পর মার কোল থেকে নেমে আবার হাঁটা শুরু। হাঁটতে গিয়ে পায়ের তলায় ঘামে হড়কে যাচ্ছে। কি করা যায় পিচের রাস্তায় খালি পায়ে হাঁটলে তো পা পুড়ে যাবে। রাস্তার পাশে বেরিয়ে থাকা একটুখানি ঘাস আর মাটি দেখলেই চটি টা খুলে তার ওপর দিয়ে হাঁটছিলাম। মাটির ধুলো লেগে পা টা একটু শুকিয়ে যাচ্ছিল। আবার চটি পরলে একই অবস্থা।

পিচ গরম। আর সব জায়গায় তো আর মাটি বেরিয়ে নেই। অগত্যা এরকম ভাবেই আমি যাচ্ছিলাম।

তবে পিচের পাকা রাস্তা যতই সমান হোক, সেইসময় মাটিতে হেঁটে যে আরাম পেয়েছিলাম, তার অনুভুতি ব্যখ্যা করা যায় না। ঠাণ্ডা মাটি তার সাথে মাঝে মধ্যেই নরম নরম ঘাস। মনে হচ্ছিল কেউ যেন ব্যাথা পায়ে নরম ঠাণ্ডা হাত বুলিয়ে দিচ্ছে।  

– কাকদ্বীপ –

এরকমভাবে কতখন হেঁটেছিলাম মনে পরেনা। কিন্তু নোনা মাটির ও তার সাথে শুকনো মাছের গন্ধ মিশে একটা আলাদা রকম চেনা গন্ধ পেয়েই বুঝে গেছিলাম কাকদ্বীপ চলে এসেছি।

কাকদ্বীপ থেকে আমাদের বাড়ি আরও ৬ কিলোমিটার ভেতরে যেতে হয়। কিন্তু হাঁটার শক্তি একদমই ছিলনা আমার। মাঝে মধ্যেই মায়ের হাত ধরে ঝুলে পড়ছিলাম।

কাকদ্বীপ চৌরাস্তার পাকা ব্রিজ পার হলেই। মায়ের ছোট কাকু মানে আমার এক দাদুর বাড়ি ছিল। সেখানে যখন পৌঁছলাম ঘড়িতে বাজে দুপুর ২.৩০।

দাদুর বাড়ি ভাত খাওয়ার পর কখন ঘুমিয়ে পরেছিলাম মনে নেই। বিকেল ৪টের সময় আবার বাড়ি যাওয়ার জন্য বেরলাম। বাড়ি যেতে হবে দাদা একা আছে।

কাকদ্বীপ থেকে আমড়াতলা সাড়ে তিন কিলোমিটারের মতো হেঁটে যাওয়ার পর গ্রামেরই এক চেনা লোকের সাথে দেখা হয়ে গেলো।

তাকে অনুরোধ করাতে সাইকেলে করে পৌঁছে দেবার জন্য রাজি হয়ে গেলেন। আমার আবছা মনে পড়ে এখনও, লাল ছোট সাইকেল। আমি সামনে বসেছি আর আমার মা বসেছে পেছনে। বাঁধানো ইটের রাস্তা। তখন পিচ ঢালাই পাকা রাস্তা ছিল না।

ঘটিহারা পর্যন্ত যাওয়ার পর ইটের রাস্তা শেষ। আমি আর মা সাইকেল থেকে নেমে আবার হাঁটতে শুরু করলাম। পোল পার হতে হবে যে এবার। বাঁশের পোল।

– শেষমেশ বাড়ি পৌঁছলাম –

পোল পেরিয়ে আর ঘণ্টা খানেক হাঁটলেই বাড়ি। নদির ওপর তখন বাঁশের পোল ছিল। এখন আর নেই। বড় পাকার ব্রিজ হয়ে গেছে। মনে পড়ে পোলের মাঝখানটা আবার দুলতো। সেই সময় খুব ভয় লাগত আমার। যদিও বড় হওয়ার পর মজা পেতাম খুব। বাবা শিখিয়েছিল পা টা একটু ক্যারচা করে ফেলতে হয় তাহলেই ভালো করে হাঁটা যায়।

পোল পেরিয়ে যখন বাড়ি ফিরলাম তখন পশ্চিমদিকের আকাশ লাল, সন্ধে হয়ে গেছে। তারপর দুদিন আমার পা ভীষণ ব্যাথা ছিল। সেই বাহানায় স্কুলেও যাইনি। কিন্তু খেলা বন্ধ ছিল না।

এখনও ভাবলে নিজেরই অবাক লাগে সত্যি কি আমি অতোটা রাস্তা হেঁটেছিলাম না কোনও স্বপ্ন ছিল। সেবারেই বুঝেছিলাম আর যাই হোক বন্ধ্‌ ব্যাপারটা খুব একটা ভালো জিনিস নয়। হ্যাঁ যদি এটা এখন হতো হাঁটতে মজাই লাগত।

এখন ওই রাস্তায় বাসে যতবারই যাই আমার ওই স্মৃতিটা মনে পড়ে যায়। এখন মনে হয়, ওই অভিজ্ঞতাটা হয়তো আমাকে সেইসময় ভবিষ্যতের কোনও ইঙ্গিত দিতে চেয়েছিল।

বিঃ দ্রঃ

সেই সময় আমার কোনও ক্যামেরা তো দূরে থাক রেডিও ও ছিল না। এই পোস্টে ব্যাবহার করা ছবি ইন্টারনেট থেকে নেওয়া।

Picture used in this blog: Internet. please e-mail me for credit.

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